The Grand Tour (Five Architects & ‘de’ Volvo)

A reflection of the trip from Belfast to Porto - 15th to the 24th January 2010

The University Of Ulster School Of Architecture has always encouraged students to travel so they can learn through exploration and experience. Cultural context forms an integral part of the schools education programme and experiencing other cultures first hand is one of the best ways of learning about them.

Porto was the destination chosen for 2010 and the dates were set for the sixth year trip. Porto only being a mere 2000 miles drive away gave some of us the perfect ‘excuse’ to take the car. Our intentions were to see as much as possible and be free to stop where and when we wanted. Kitted out with a sat-nav, The Phaidon Atlas (travel edition) and frequent access to Google we were guided to some interesting projects. Our logical thinking was telling us that the trip ahead was ambitious, but limits of distance and time fell within our capabilities. We sacrificed the comfort of a plane seat to satisfy our desires to see more along the roads, and we got more than we bargained for.

Two hundred years ago The Grand Tour of Europe was the most exciting travel experience any young person was likely to encounter. The privileged youth of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries went on voyages to experience new cultures, learn about geography, art, language and architecture. Their experiences were wide and varied, they documented details of carriages breaking down, lives lost and treasured artefacts of art and literature were exported back to their home lands as souvenirs. Their high class morals were often left at the border as they veered from their path to gamble and drink in bathhouses and brothels across Europe.

When we five voyagers were packed into the Volvo saloon you can imagine the lessons in scale we went through. Firstly there was the problem of baggage, and hence the boot had to be practically vacuum sucked for it all to fit. Then there was the lack of leg room, arm room and even air! However the very fact of travelling like this added to our experience, ideas and opinions were shared and there was no space avoided. The conversations were at times both agreeable and argumentative. The important thing is that we did this collectively and as one shared others listened. Travelling through the landscape allowed us time to reflect on many things, whether it was the breakfast we had that morning, the price of fuel or the delicately finished surfaces of Le Corbusier’s Firminy Church. We were learning more from each other than ever expected, I suppose you could say the ‘studio’ environment was taken to new levels; no models, no laptops… just conversation and sketch books.

Architects travel every second of every day, their paths are constant journeys of experience and education. Metaphorically the mind is used like a sponge to absorb surroundings, and when ‘rung’ out onto a page these previous experiences help form the position of that designer’s mindset. Education through contact with other people, sights and societies is essential to the formation of that mindset.

We received valuable lessons as we got a hands on feeling of the materials each project was constructed with, some which were effortlessly joined and others were incredibly simple but successful. Le Corbusier’s use of in-situ concrete in contrast with the glazing of Musac - Leon, Spain – presented us with logic, craft and an understanding of the thought process that went into each detail.

We sampled the local treats along the way, whether it was the nicotine drenched ‘tapas’ we downed at 3am in St.Ettien in some lonely bar or the brochettes at 8.30am at the foot of Abalos and Herros’s Four Towers in Victoria they all added to our experience. This trip was one where the phrases ‘por favor’ and ‘grandes, más grande’ were getting regular use. The notorious visit to McDonnalds even surprised us as we were delighted to see they severed the local brew, complimented with insulated cups, plastic lid and all. All this however did not dampen our appetite for discovering the next project on the ‘hit’ list. In fact it was essential in attempting to understand the culture that surrounded us.

Our tour was an unforgettable ten day experience, and it was worth every penny and every mile.

A special thanks: Thanks to Michael and Lorna Ferguson for hosting us at their converted church in the South of France. Your kindness will never be forgotten. Thank you. It’s worth noting: Most university trips are self funded by students who are already under financial pressure. These opportunities for travelling are invaluable experiences, especially in the field of Architecture. If you have any ideas as to how future students can raise funds or receive grants/scholarships then please comment below.

Travellers(from left to right): Keith Willis, Peter McGonigle, Eamon Phelan, John McGuigan & Ronan Fitzpatrick.

Projects Visited: ENGLAND Cambridge - Accordia Housing - Feilden Clegg Bradley Walsall - The New Art Gallery - Caruso St John Architects Birmingham - Selfridges Commercial Centre - Future systems FRANCE Eveux, Lyon - Monastery of La Tourette - Le Corbusier Firminy - La Stade - Le Corbusier Firminy - Masion de la Culture - Le Corbusier Firminy - Swimming pool - Le Corbusier Firminy - Unité d’habitation - Le Corbusier Firminy - L’Eglise Saint-Pierre - Le Corbusier Mancioux - Church (Residential Conversion) - Michael Ferguson Millau - Millau Bridge - Norman Foster SPAIN Leon - City Morgue / Funeral Home – Baas Architects Leon - Concert Hall - Mansilla + Tunón Leon - Musac - Mansilla + Tunón Leon - Council Offices (Casa Botines) - Gaudi Bilbao - International Airport - Calatrava Bilbao - Guggenheim - Frank Gehry Bilbao - Palacio Euskalduna Concert Hall - Aala Fererico Soriano & Dolores Palacios Bilbao - Zubizuri Bridge - Calatrava Vitoria - Four towers – Abalos & Herreros Behobla Irun - Civic Council Office Tower - HF Arquitectos Bilbao -Bridge - Calatrava Bilbao -Bridge - Calatrava PORTUGAL Porto - Swimming pools – Alvaro Siza Porto - Tea House – Alvaro Siza Porto - University of Architecture – Alvaro Siza Porto - Museum and Sculpture Garden – Alvaro Siza Porto - Bouca Housing – Alvaro Siza Porto - Burgo Office Tower - Eduardo Souto de Moura Porto - Casa de Musica - O.M.A.

John McGuigan - Graduate of the University of Ulster's Masters Program

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